Category: Uncategorized

Doug and I are passionate about the First Day Hike; the tradition of getting outside in your home state on January 1 to enjoy nature and move. In Virginia, the weather in winter is usually fair and we’ve been lucky to have mostly warm days. Occasionally we modify plans and go a day before or after January 1 to take advantage of drier or warmer weather. 2023 we lucked out with a balmy 60-degree day.

What’s the Hiking GOAL?

I’ve recently been inspired to complete the Virginia Bucket List Hikes (we’ll call it GOAL – Goodman Outdoor Adventure List) by the end of 2024. There are 27 locations and we’ve been to 5 already so we’re well on the way. Since we’re “empty nesters” with family along the route to some of the best mountain hikes, it seems like a perfect way to enjoy this stage of our lives.

Since Great Fall Park in McLean, Va is first on the Virginia Tourism list, we chose it for our First Day Hike. Since that area is notorious for terrible traffic, there was an added benefit going on New Year’s Day – no regular workday traffic nor holiday congestion on the beltway.

We arrived around 10:00 a.m. and bought our National Parks Annual pass on the way in for $80 and are excited to put it to good use in 2023! The ranger recommended parking in the visitor’s center lot and hiking the River Trail. The visitors center was closed for renovations but the first-floor bathrooms were open.

Just beyond the visitor center, we were immediately rewarded with the hike’s most scenic view. The observation deck for the falls is easily accessible and truly amazing. I’ve lived in Virginia for 45 years and had NO idea that this amazing prize is in the heart of NoVa. It’s a short drive off the beltway just north of Tyson’s Corner on Georgetown Pike. From the parking lot, the sight is accessible for anyone who is able to walk the distance into a grocery store from a parked car.

Best Place to Impress Visitors in Northern Virginia

I was not prepared for the grandeur of these falls. The natural beauty of the experience told me I never appreciated northern Virginia the way I should. If I still lived nearby, this would be the first place I bring out-of-town guests and the place I’d visit regularly for doses of nature.

Visitors experience the “grand finale” at the outset so it is a homerun sight! No matter the energy level or enthusiasm for a hike, this is a great view for almost anyone. But if you have a more adventurous group that wants to explore more, the River Trail continues to amaze. Walking downriver, the terrain becomes narrow, rocky, and less suitable for those with mobility concerns.

The River Trail followed the Potomac River south until it made a sharp bend east. The path is elevated high above the river and only one point does it get close to the water, at Sandy Landing. Park rules strictly forbid swimming and wading even in places where the water seems calm so the river is purely for admiring on this hike. We continued on Ridge Trail until the river took a sharp bend to the east and then returned on the Matildaville Trail where there were some interesting remains of a town from the 1790s.

The round trip was about 5 miles and mostly easy hiking, with beautiful scenery. I want to return to this place regularly – it is truly a gem.

Post-Hike Lunch

There were no restaurants between the park and the beltway (495) so we had to wait to get lunch. We drove beyond the usual I-95 sticking points in that area and ate like commoners at Panera (still delicious!). Next time, we’ll pack some lunch and enjoy the park longer.

Insider Secrets

Driving on Georgetown Pike, we noticed several county parks and those parking lots appeared to be full. I suspect those with more knowledge of the area were parking in the local (free-entry) lots and hiking trails into Great Falls Park. River Bend Park is above Great Falls and a 1.5-mile trail connects to Great Falls Park. A wise move for residents who go there often!

National Parks Annual Pass is a GREAT Investment

Since we are going for a large number of hikes this year in a national park (Skyline Drive), I don’t regret the purchase of the annual pass. For single-sight seers, the easy access to the stunning falls is well worth the $20/vehicle entry fee. Other national parks charge $30 per vehicle so if you may go to more in the year, the annual pass will be a big savings.

There’s a reason there isn’t much written about the North River Gorge Trail on Virginia is for Lovers: It’s underwhelming. It’s certainly not bad, but I don’t consider it worthy of the “Bucket List Hikes” for Virginia. It does look like a really nice place to camp, however. We passed one nice spot that looked like several tents could be pitched. From watching other videos, it seems like there were plenty further down the trail also.

This Can’t Be the Place…

When we arrived at the parking lot, we drove past it three times because there were no markers or clear trail entrances. We finally realized the small parking lot was the only possibility and when Doug walked to the wood line, he could finally see the trail, so we unloaded and got ready to explore.

Yellow Jackets are Jerks

July in Virginia is bad for ticks and mosquitos so we sprayed on the deet. Then the four of us, plus our dog Maggie, started down the rocky, overgrown path. At the bottom, Caleb showed us where he’d just been bitten by bugs twice – once on his arm and once on his head. His complaint and reaction were so minor, I surmised it was a horsefly since they aren’t often deterred by bug spray. We learned on the way back that they were yellow jacket stings. On the return to the car, I was the last person to go over the nest – apparently, it’s the fourth person they go after.

Thankfully I was only stung once but it felt like that sting was spring-loaded. I swatted it with my flip-flops that then flew out of my hand (and still remain on the trail because I wouldn’t let anyone go back for them. I regret littering but it seems like the right decision.) How did those buggers make a sting feel like it was shot at me? Jerks. I’m glad it wasn’t worse and really glad Maggie didn’t get stung for being the closest to the hive.

Back to the Trail

Once we descended about 50 feet, the path was wide and gently sloped. Since we’d be crossing the river, we took off our hiking boots and put on flip-flops. They weren’t the safest footwear choice but seemed like the only option other than hiking in soggy boots. The water was about calf-deep in the middle and the riverbed was rocky but fairly predictable. It took us a few minutes to cross; the biggest challenge was getting a footing on the uneven rocks. While the water wasn’t very forceful, it still affected our balance. We took our time and enjoyed the scenery and the cold-water wade.

The trail followed the river, and at times became narrow because of the vegetation. We were extra cautious to stay away from poison ivy – I avoid contact with any leafy greens in nature – so it concerned me a little. In the end, none of us had any signs of being in contact with poison ivy. The trail crossed the river again and then we passed a nice camping area (mentioned above).

We Bailed Out

Soon we realized this effort of having to change shoes with each cross wasn’t worth the low-value scenery. We turned around and headed back, only completing about half of the 4.2 mile out-and-back hike. We saw a total of four other people on that trail so apparently it is not popular. It IS still in the woods, still in nature, and still with my favorite people, so good, but it was my least favorite hike so far. The (yellow jacket) jerks sealed that deal.

Check this list of my recommended Virginia hikes.

Before Bringing Kids or Dogs

Fording the river is the main consideration for this hike. The moving water is usually low but don’t underestimate its power.

Check the water level. We intentionally waited until summer to try this one when the level would be lower, so we kept an eye on the amount of rain in the days leading up to it. The USGS gauge shows the level varies from about 1.5 to 3.5 feet but tends to be under 2.5 feet as long as there haven’t been heavy rains.

Lunch in Staunton, Virginia

With the dog, we sought out an outdoor lunch option in Staunton, about 20 minutes away, also in Augusta County. Byers Street Bistro confirmed that they allowed dogs on the patio so we parked in the nearby lot and enjoyed a beverage and tasty lunch. With family in this area, we’ll definitely go back for the nice atmosphere, friendly service, and tasty pizza, burgers, salads, and sandwiches.

Is there more than meets the eye on North River Gorge Trail?

Comment below if you’ve been there and had a better experience – and what we should try next time. I’d like to be wrong about this!

The sunny day and first day of spring meant we needed a new park and preferably near some water. We heard of Powhatan State Park last year and I wanted to check it out before the really warm months in hopes of being able to paddleboard. There were some really nice kayak/canoe launch ramps that would work for paddleboards if you have your own. I did not see any place to rent paddleboards but am going to keep my eyes open because this part of the James looks wonderful for paddling!

My husband and I and our two dogs really enjoyed an easy (and easily scalable) hike that started along the river. We chose a loop that was about three miles. There are some beautiful spots on the River Trail for a picnic that kids would find adventurous but still easy and flat, parking at the trailhead to the River Trail. While I am not interested in camping, there were several campsites along the River Trail that looked as nice as they come.

• 

• 

• 

• 

• 

For a quick, easy walk with flat terrain, the trolley line is a perfect easy trail, with a mix of suburban path, country road and trail through the woods along a creek. On a sunny and brisk March day, my husband and I and two dogs enjoyed the fresh air, smell of pine needles warmed by the sun and almost alien sounds of frogs in the creek that runs beside the trail.

The boardwalk is not yet complete but looks almost ready and until then, Maple Street is not a busy road and easy enough to walk for about 100 meters to the start of the path. Keep track of the progress on the Ashland website.

We parked at the Carter Park pool, crossed Ashcake Road (at the crosswalk) and used the paved trail that runs behind Lance and Bridle neighborhood. A short stint on the road and then it was onto the trail; the most enjoyable part. I’m excited to see the trolley line in a few weeks when the leaves pop in Virginia. The trees provided a nice block for the chilly wind and will also provide needed shade in the heat of summer, making it particularly nice for dogs and younger kids. The trail would not be stroller friendly but a jogging stroller would handle it well, if young ones aren’t too sensitive to the slight slant.

The walk from Carter Park pool to Gwathmey Church Road is .75 miles, but to enjoy a longer stroll, continue north on Center Street that runs along the train tracks into Downtown Ashland. Stop for a drink or lunch at the Caboose, or a craft beer at Origins, or go to Ashland Meat Company in the old Cross Brothers Grocery to get a Nightingale Ice Cream Sandwich.

First trip, on January 1, 2016: First Landing State Park and we enjoyed a walk on beach where the Chesapeake Bay meets the Atlantic Ocean. It is north of Virginia Beach and a nice deviation from the commercialism of that area. The walk from the parking lot to the end of the beach (where a chain link fence prohibited walking further) was less than a mile. It was an easy walk with very few people on the chilly January day. Our yellow lab loved the walk and did a little swimming, as an experienced river dog, January temps didn’t phase her a bit.